After building the Quest in Christchurch she was transported by truck to Picton in the Marlborough Sounds on the northern aspect of the southern island of New Zealand. The Marlborough Sounds are a marvelous cruising area.

The shakedown trip for the Quest was south along the western coast of the south island to nearly 47 degrees south latitude. Please believe everything that is said about the roaring forties! Our first stop was Milford Sound, the northernmost of the fiords that exist in the south western aspect of the southern island. These fiords have been created over the eons by the force of the southern ocean slamming into New Zealand as the storms move around the Antarctic from west to east. It's a remote and wild country - well worth the visit!.

We came into Milford Sound in the middle of the night (right) and were able to find these mooring buoys. In the morning we gazed at these incredible glaciers. We had scoped out Milford Sound on a previous caravan (that's what the Kiwis call motor home) trip to the area. The captain of the tour boat had even given us permission to use one of their moorings. By the time we found our way to this cove in the dark of night (without our radar working) we were grateful. In the morning we thought we were in Yosemite. This area is like Yosemite on water - very very steep walls of thousands of feet high and deep deep water also thousands of feet deep.

Can you see this triple deck tour boat? (left) This gives you an idea of the scale of Milford Sound (in Southern New Zealand)! We were in awe sailing around these sounds (that's what the Kiwis call fiords). Oh, the word "Kiwi" refers to the New Zealand people as well as a rare flightless bird found in New Zealand.

Because these sounds are VERY deep cruisers have put out mooring lines.  We put out a bow anchor and use these lines for a stern tie. Once you get this trick down it works great. The biggest problem with this location was the "noseeums" - tiny little gnats that crawl into the smallest space possible. Our strategy? Close up the boat and get out the vacuum cleaner to remove all the ones that came in while anchoring. Oh, did I tell you that these particular bugs are sap suckers. That is, they bore through tree bark to find their dinner. So, succulent tender human flesh is easy pickin's and creates not so nice painful scratchy welts on human flesh. But did I mention how fabulous it was to be here in this rain forest of unique New Zealand flora? And, no problem having to share an anchorage with another cruiser (hmm...I wonder why!).

Quest anchored in Bradford Sound, Southern New Zealand (45 degrees south latitude). In this quiet anchorage we could NOT believe that storm conditions raged outside (55+ knot winds!). This shakedown cruise was definitely a baptism by fire. Having NO bluewater experience prior to meeting Scott, I was looking forward to gaining some heavy weather experience on this trip. Oh My Gosh!!! Be careful what you ask for!! There are two major things that got us through these storms: a good boat and an experienced captain. FYI: Many people forget the definition of a gale is 34 to 47 knots of wind, a storm is 48 to 63 knots (>63 knots = a hurricane).

Bill catches a grouper in Gaer Arm of Bradshaw Sound (right). (2/19/2002). What a treat!! This is the river adjacent to our anchorage - perfect for fly fishing I'm told. We did NOT encounter the "noseeums" on this river excursion. I don't know why we weren't bothered by bugs, but we sure enjoyed it here.

We took the dinghy up the river (left) through this unique flora of Southern New Zealand (Gaer Arm - 2/19/02).  This is the river adjacent to our anchorage - perfect for fly fishing I'm told. We did NOT encounter the "noseeums" on this river excursion. I don't know why we weren't bothered by bugs, but we sure enjoyed it here.

Peter Foster (left) (editor of the Fiordland cruising guide) is shown on his boat "Reliance."  It was quite a trill to meet this icon of New Zealand cruisers. Mr. Foster has not only sailed these areas extensively, but is part of the cruising group who set up many of the mooring lines in the area. Though "Reliance" is now sold Mr. Foster is known for single handling her throughout fiordland. Check out the Stewart Island guide which he wrote in conjunction with a Canadian, Foster Goodfellow.

Motoring in Breaksea Sound, looking for an anchorage (right). These steep waterfalls create an ideal fresh water source for cruisers. We felt like we were on another planet - or at least on the other side of the world (Hmm...). This particular day we decided to try out our Irridium phone. I had little hope of it actually working in these steep fiords. So, I decided to call my sister to wish her a Happy Birthday, and guess what? It actually worked! I think I was as surprised as she was when we connected.

The majesty and isolation of this area is readily apparent (left).  Captain Cook explored these very waters, little has changed. You actually feel like you're a time traveler when you're cruising through these pristine waters with its unrecognizable vegetation.

When cruising in remote places you're eager to meet other yachts. Because this was our first cruise on Quest and because we were new to the area we were especially anxious to meet local people. In fact, they did tell us many useful things that have helped us a great deal. Peter and his wife, Iris, own, operate and lead excursions on their boat, "Talisker." They are based in Stewart Island and take people throughout these southern areas. A great way to see the area without bringing your own boat!

Stewart Islands registers at ~47 degrees south latitude. Weather is constantly changing. What a unique place! We actually never got a storm break to take the boat to Stewart Island. I think the best way to go is the way we went - by ferry. I'm hopeful that we'll be able to visit in 2005/6. The plan would be to stay at a B&B and take a locally owned and operated tour boat (the s/v Talisker).

We've noticed that people living in high latitudes are very devoted to their gardens. This is Iris's garden (right) on Stewart Island. We saw the same interest in flower gardens when we visited Alaska and British Columbia. I really think it has to do with the many grey days people experience in these areas. What you also see in this photo (better than others I have) is the unique natural flora that is native to New Zealand.

This is Patterson Inlet on Stewart Island (left). The original explorers anchored here.  Kiwis still can be found on the beaches of Stewart Island, N.Z. Patterson Inlet and Pegasus Inlet are the two cruising areas on Stewart Island.

Mari, the voice of Bluff Fisherman's radio, "followed" us around the southern island. Mari and her husband were immensely helpful while we were in Bluff (right). Along with helping us fix a few things on the boat, they helped us find transportation to take care of business in a neighboring town and helped us find internet access to stay in touch with friends and family. There are no more friendly and helpful people than the people in New Zealand. Here Mari and her husband give us tips on exiting Bluff Harbor (when the wind dies!).

We waited in Bluff about a week fixing the radio and autopilot while waiting for storm force winds (60knots+) The hospitality of the people in Bluff was unparalleled. We needed to go to a nearby town for business. A friend of an acquaintance loaned us his car. His only admonition was this: "When you park the car, be sure to park it facing the wind. If you don't, the wind could blow the doors right off the car!" Needless to say, we were very careful and very grateful. If you notice we're docked in the commercial harbor. Other visiting yachts were nowhere to be seen.

Scott, Mari (the voice of Bluff Fisherman's Radio) and Jean standing on the Quest in Bluff Harbor. Mari followed us around the South Island by reports from other boats. Mari and her husband helped us plan our repairs and devise an exit strategy. They came to the boat knocked on the cabin top and told us it was time to leave - without delay!

Bluff was the most southern stop for the Quest. Bluff is known as a manufacturer of IAMS dog & cat food, a large aluminum smelter and a stepping off point for Antarctica! We had crew going down the west coast, but Scott & I sailed up the east coast and through Cook Strait (which separates the North and South Islands) by ourselves (and the grace of God!). When we left Bluff we were told that we had a four hour weather window in which to get out of the harbor and around the islands in Foveaux Strait. It took us two hours just to get the lines off the dock and safely stowed. During that four hour window the winds fell to 35 knots and we were able to get the Quest out through large rollers and into the main shipping channel.

Bill joined us in southwest New Zealand and again on our trip to Tahiti.

We're back in Picton (right) - more work on the boat. Getting a boat ready for a transoceanic trip is not for the fainthearted. We've never known anyone who hopped on a brand new boat and took off on a bluewater cruise. There's just too many details involved in making a boat self-sufficient and seaworthy. And besides that, we wanted a comfortable boat that was (and is) our home!

After our shakedown cruise around the South Island, and finishing original commissioning we leave the Marlborough Sounds to travel north to Auckland. This was the weather when Scott & I left Tory Channel (left). We were hopeful that we'd have a smooth sail up the east coast to meet our Bill in Auckland for the leg to Tahiti - especially since it was another trip with just the two of us.

Another tough trip, (right) this time around the East Cape of the North Island. They say we don't get what we deserve in life! In this case, I thought I deserved a nice calm trip, but I forgot that we're still in the fortieth latitude. And remember I had been seeking rough weather experience! It's hard to tell by photos, but these waves and winds were constant for several days. Rereading the log for those days shows winds in the 40's and wave height 15 - 20 feet. I have to say, I'm ready for the tropics!

West Park Marina is located under the bridge and up the river from the main Harbor of Auckland. Navigating up this river at 3:30am at low tide after 5 days of battling around the infamous East Cape landed the Quest & crew sleeping in the mud for the rest of the night.

Getting ready for our big trip to Tahiti we enjoy the view of downtown Auckland from West Park Marina. We look forward to returning to New Zealand. Especially because with all the time and effort it took to get the Quest seaworthy and ready for her trip home left us insufficient time to enjoy the many unique cruising areas in this remarkable county. What I have learned is that there's never enough time to cruise any wonderful area.